Covid-19 transforms Europe's trade shows.

Covid-19 transformed Europe’s trade shows. After an upbeat start in January, by mid-year they were either fully digital or hybrid.

Here, fabric & yarns expert Janet Prescott shares her insights into the wool trade in this most unexpected of years.

A Digital Transformation for European Trade

From Pitti Connect to Première Vision, Milano Unica and Filo, efforts to stage exhibitions during the pandemic, whether completely digital or hybrid, forced full-speed acceleration of e-commerce. Sometimes barely profitable due to reduced footfall, they worked. Online visits to virtual showrooms led to contacts and real sampling enlivened by new designs. Growing usage of social media for information and contact down the supply-chain proved game-changing.

Wool made its presence felt throughout as a sustainable and technical fibre.

The Woolmark Company, participating at Pitti Uomo, joined the first video of Pitti Connect Conversation in its capacity as technical partner to ultrachic Luna Rossa yachting. Birgit Gahlen from TWC talked advanced knitted wool technology with Vittorio Branchizio of Shima Seiki, hosted by Matteo Mina of MF Fashion.

Wool made its mark right across the new collections and The Campaign for Wool’s 10th anniversary of Wool Week came alive on Twitter and Instagram in September.

Sustainability: The New Normal

Hand in hand with digital advances went the unstoppable move towards verifiable sustainability. Sustainability featured in every exhibition and most collections as the new normal.

The soil-to-soil eco advantages of animal and plant fibre, with ultimate disposability, were widely signalled. The year also introduced more recycled synthetics used with natural fibres.

A supply chain that works sustainably from beginning to end is seen as no longer a choice, but a necessity.

Learn more: How Wool Reduces Climate Impact (PDF)

Wool Satisfies an Appetite for Identity

Cravings for connection surfaced frequently. Raw materials breed of sheep and country of origin were all identified. Storytelling round historical mills and production methods was amplified.

Along with lambswool, angora, and fine Merino, there was renewed interest in localised wool. Shepley Yarns, Yorkshire, devoted itself to all British wool at Pitti Filati. Shetland was named in many collections in Pitti Uomo, genuine Donegal from Knoll Yarns featured at Filati, and Harris Tweed trended throughout.

Covid-19 Transforms European Trade Shows

Pitti Immagine, fully digital, gathered Pitti Uomo, Bimbo and Filati on one platform, Pitti Connect. Feel the Yarn’s 11th student competition at Pitti Filati saw 34 international finalists designing with the latest in precious knitting yarns from 34 prestigious Italian mills. Top prizes went to three talented students with mills impressively profiled on social media.

Premiere Vision went wholly digital at short notice. PV’s online Marketplace showcased an impressive tally of 43,000 products from 1675 suppliers.

Renowned for its cerebral fashion information, major theme at PV “Caring Protection” – cried out for wool, soft fibre blends and soft fabrics for Autumn/Winter 2021/22, also flagged up as a major feature at Pitti Filati and Filo yarns Spring/Summer 2022

Milano Unica staged a physical show including luxury Ideabiella wool fabrics and launched e-Milano Connect digital market. Monsters and Perfumes showcased technical sporting trends including unexpected accessory materials; plastics, rubber, hooks, nets, and camouflage.

Milano Unica moved to two days in early September, IWTO’s Retail Forum Chair Peter Ackroyd commented, “It was brave of Milano Unica to reschedule; it provided a timely reminder; although business is by no means back to being ‘usual’, wool, with its unique environmental message, needs to make a strong winter seasonal statement in anticipation of return to some form of retail normality 2021/22.”

Filo Milan in early October also managed a physical show. Filo’s longterm strong emphasis on sustainability has put it at the fore of specialist yarn shows. Trend director Gianni Bologna’s expert editing displayed the ranges of yarns in ‘Chromatic Reflections’ destined for menswear, womenswear, interiors and sports.