Through colours and designs for fabrics and yarns, Premiere Vision set the scene for Spring Summer 2023. Janet Prescott reports for IWTO.

A return to normality with Premiere Vision

Following on the heels of the Pitti shows in Florence and Moda in Milan, Premiere Vision in Paris this year saw enthusiasm from exhibitors, buyers, and good numbers of in-person visitors using its well-established marketplace.

The environmental costs of fashion and fabrics were high on the agenda, acting as the defining glue for all aspects and of bringing wool and plant fibres into the spotlight for Summer.

Natural fibres featured wool in fancy fabrics, Harris tweed, light worsteds with shine as at Luxury Fabrics, summer magic interpreted in pale coloured wool checks as at Abraham Moon, light bright fabrics at John Foster, and pastel fancy Linton tweeds.

This edition of PV saw many Italian, British and Turkish woollen and worsted fabrics, many shinier and more colourful than usual for summer jackets and thicker, but also there were extra light tweeds, for bright, decorative summer looks.

Ungendered designs responded to a new dressy, individual vibe, reflecting new ways of working and living in the post-Covid ambience. With a backward nod at vintage, companies with cherished tradition made the most of the importance of sustainability and eco-responsibility.

Trending: technical enhancements

Technology is becoming key to enhance and explain the performance of natural fibres and different blends. Large companies at the fibre end of the business like blending natural fibres with carefully selected man-made made yarns to enhance sparkle and shine, elasticity and washability.

Wool scores highly on technology and ecology in the summer months as well as winter. The Woolmark Company’s Wool Lab backed this up with a vast number of swatches and suppliers, innovation and design.