The outlook for wool is rosy in this edition of Spring/Summer yarns. Janet Prescott reports for IWTO.
Pitti Filati 90
The signs for wool look positive in this edition of Pitti Filati, another surprisingly successful event according to organisers, and backed up with warm words from participants.
There is still uncertainty about trade in general, because of the pandemic and world events but at the fairs the mood has been optimistic. As far as wool goes, seeing that it was the yarn show for Spring Summer, things looked rosy.
Wool featured to a greater extent than usual for summer, in fine or extra fine qualities, but with some thicker yarns in blends as at Filpa. It goes to show the consumer realization that many of the eco qualities customers are seeking are found in wool garments. The message is getting through, especially to the younger consumers.
Clever Blends and a Range of Partners
A collection of fully natural fibres of different microns was unveiled by Suedwolle/Biella Yarn which devoted most of their material to Merino yarns. These yarns are cleverly constructed, like Carlisle Nm 2/60 and Nm 2/80 made from 70% Merino wool Superfine, Super 160’S, 15.5 mic, anti-shrinkage, and 30% silk.
The blend of wool with functional fibres is another trend as performance is still live issue with continued growth in active wear from home to mountain. Blended with such as COOLMAX® described as EcoMade Polyester. Wool has been partnered this season with other fibres such as ramie, linen and nettles which aid easy care, or produce a different handle with recycled synthetic yarns, and other natural fibres, in a major ratio for wool.
The spinners concentrated on talking up their sustainable status, which is well organised at the start of the supply change with many quoting changes which had happened during the pandemic, taken as a time for re-setting and revisiting their business and how they run it. In this way some could point out time to consider improvements planned in areas such as water management, less manufacturing wastage and using re-purposed materials.
The Woolmark Company was also on hand with the latest digital Wool Lab, featuring its extensive fashion information and sourcing.
Knitwear on the Rise
Various set talks took place during the show involving discussion of the rise of knitwear to importance for many reasons, including that it appeals to modern living. Because it does not constrict the body, but underlines its form, knitwear has been boosted by the less formal demands for working, one speaker explained.
Wool was seen in an eye-catching knitted Stoll wool shoe indicating another increasingly promising use for the fibre on a large scale, with Shima Seiki also developing advanced programmes for knitting for accessories and fashion.
Skills in making and repairing have been to the fore, triggered by with the current climate crisis and the realization that skilled people to work in the actual manufacturing of clothing is invaluable and rapidly disappearing in terms of skills in some Western societies.
Pitti Immagine put on a static Fashion Parade of the creations of accomplished students studying knitwear in Rome for the CKD_Masters, developed by Modateca Deanna and Accademia Costume & Moda, dramatically staged at the entrance to the Stazione Leopolda. In another link between materials and young makers, Filidea hosted on its stand selected waistcoat designs made by students studying advanced manufacturing skills.