With Pitti Uomo, Pitti Filati and Milano Unica, Europe opened its doors and e-platforms to 2022 & 2023. Wool shoes, athletic gear and sportswear are transforming expectations among younger customers, while WFM is leaving its legacy, in knits.
Janet Prescott reports from Pitti Uomo, Pitti Filati and Milano Unica
Pitti Uomo
Wool played a big part in summer menswear presentations for 2022. Classy menswear companies mixed plant fibre for jackets and shirts and also reaffirmed the role of wool, like Nuage wool (14.5m) in colours inspired by the north African desert, at the Caruso collection for SS 2022.
In many cases, suits and jackets in summer wool were out of the box, imaginative and different; for example, bright red at Pitti Uomo Guest Designer Thebe Magugu. He created a Wild West look worn with large Stetson hats the jackets in jaunty checks like black and light blue. Suits with a difference.
Natural fibres for bright oversized checks and stripes were selected for their traditional qualities. They are identified with the current need for traceability and a sustainable pedigree. Brushed and textured wools were common choices. Wool sweaters were matched with boiled wool jackets.
Wool qualities like Shetland, fine micron Merino, Donegal, lambswool were signalled in descriptions on the garment labels. Knitted trousers for sporty activewear mixed with bomber jacket and jeans. Sweatshirts and shirt jackets were shown in lightweight knit with mesh for summer.
Trendy brand Distretto12, Italy with ‘Casual pop chic’ used knitted wool jersey for a futuristic look with colour and patterns in easy to wear garments. An easy cut was a feature of the collections, allowing for movement. It is clear the legacy of working at home during the pandemic is an international one.
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Pitti Filati
Wool was identified with the most innovative developments at all yarn levels in Pitti Immagine Filati, the most influential of yarn fairs. Taking place in Florence and on the Pitti Connect platform, it was followed by visitors in person at the Stazione Leopolda and on the internet worldwide. With the focus on Autumn/Winter 2022/23 the approach was for substantial yarns, thicker, often brushed effects, twists and blends providing a greater degree of warmth but retaining a light weight for layering.
Wool blends were with alpaca, silk, linen and some synthetics for extra strength and shine. Many yarns were all wool, with Merino and thicker British wools at Shepley Yarns and Knoll Yarns and Italian mills.
Monticolor, known for experimental and promoting eco-centric responsibility presented the first cotton/wool yarn to have double sustainability certification. Named Bonwool, this offering uses RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) wool and organic GOTS (Global Organic Standard). Bonwool’s presentation was marked as an official event in the calendar of Pitti Filati.
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Milano Unica
Milano Unica opened a physical fabric show at the start of July along with a digital platform, e-MilanoUnica Connect.
With different areas of speciality, Idea Biella houses the exclusive band of high-end men’s fashion fabrics comprised of Italian renowned brands and certain high level foreign exhibitors, most showing wool and blends fabrics. John Foster, Joshua Ellis and Kynoch 1788 from the UK exhibited here, with many different fabric types, including many more coloured jacketings, tartans, and revisited classic designs.
Transforming favourite woollen and worsted designs in larger scale such as black and white houndstooth, Prince of Wales checks and herringbones, many with red, blue, orange and other bright colours, are part of the reimagining of the suit. A less stuffy look is judged more appealing to younger people, who will curate their own looks with disparate elements. Colour and pattern are creeping into the most conservative collections.
Sophisticated Vitale Barberis Canonico operates a jokey Instagram presence which takes a light-hearted look at the fabrics they sell worldwide. They also research new wool approaches with finishes and ingredients.
Wool for seriously classic yet revamped tailoring and designer fabrics, together with sportswear seeks to cement its appeal to younger generations, as at Italian names like Reda and Loro Piana.