Wool is in the limelight for 2022/23 as sustainability and change go wool’s way. Janet Prescott reports as Pitti Uomo 1010 concludes in Fortezza da Basso in Florence.
Pitti Uomo 101
Pitti Uomo101 shows that wool and natural fibres are still increasing their place in menswear for 2022/23 as sustainability becomes embedded. The January edition was a hybrid event encompassing a well-received but still reduced physical show and also the successful digital Pitti Connect, many exhibitors celebrated the hoped-for post-pandemic relaxation by producing designs in bright colours and shapes and revisiting classic menswear to tempt the customers.
Wool will be helped by the great increase in knitwear. Pitti exhibitors evidenced a surge in knitwear with jumpers, knitted sportswear and shirts, and bright socks. Chunky 3-D knits were teamed with woollen country-style jackets, produced by manufacturing which emphasises environmental concerns, a major focus of the show.
Formal wear is changing rapidly as patterns of work change but at the same time, tailoring is interesting a new generation who avoid the traditional suit, but like the look of it in a different guise. Several descriptions mentioned “Tailoring is Back” and the mills are leading the way. The important menswear brands and designer labels are responding to this conviction by completely revisiting their designs, often teaming the traditional jacket or shirt with knitwear in capsule collections and revitalising their classics.
Harris Tweed and other authentically classic country fabrics are popular with younger based labels. Interestingly, cut Merino and lambswool are sometimes introduced for a softer handle for garments traditionally in woollens, as well as the more substantial traditional Shetlands and northern breeds of wool, as the market moves to new values and different effects, revisiting styles and fabrics.
Business is obviously by no means back to normal, but the mood overall was forward looking.