Amid an impressive display to reset the industry, wool was out in force at Filo 57.
Through colours and designs for fabrics and yarns, Premiere Vision set the scene for Spring Summer 2023.
The signs for wool look positive in Pitti Filati 90, the yarn show for Spring/Summer.
Milan’s premier fabric show is a specialised affair with a vital role in the top end of the trade.
Wool is in the limelight for 2022/23 as sustainability and change go wool’s way. We report from Pitti Uomo 101.
With Pitti Uomo, Pitti Filati and Milano Unica, Europe opened its doors and e-platforms to 2022 & 2023. Wool shoes, athletic gear and sportswear are transforming expectations among younger customers, while WFM is leaving its legacy, in knits. Janet Prescott reports from Pitti Uomo, Pitti Filati and Milano Unica Pitti Uomo Wool played a big part in summer menswear presentations for 2022. Classy menswear companies mixed plant fibre for jackets and shirts and also reaffirmed the role of wool, like Nuage wool (14.5m) in colours inspired by the north African desert, at the Caruso collection for SS 2022. In many cases, suits and jackets in summer wool were out of the box, imaginative and different; for example, bright red at Pitti Uomo Guest Designer Thebe Magugu. He created a Wild West look worn with large Stetson hats the jackets in jaunty checks like black and light blue. Suits with a
Adapting with style to pandemic restrictions, Pitti Immagine offered its leading trade fairs as the fully digital Pitti Connect for nearly four months. Encompassing menswear for Autumn-Winter 2021/22 and fabrics and yarns for Spring-Summer 2022, social media powered the platform with images that reached customer and end-user alike. Animal fibres and leathers dominated many collections, as did firmly-rooted messages of sustainability. The emphasis has shifted from merely stating claims to proving them, and it was rare to find a collection which did not mention verifiable standards and certification, as well as giving fuller descriptions of the journey of their products in as much detail as possible. Looking ahead: Wool trends from Pitti Connect By Janet Prescott Menswear Autumn-Winter 2021/22 There was still a lot of dependence on dark, urban wear, military olive greens, black, and anthracite, still edgy and trendy in city wear. Dramatic oversize black and white checks
Milano Unica, digitised as e-MilanoUnica Connect, gathered some of the biggest names of Italy and Europe and beyond on its digital platforms with 225 companies altogether. These included the Japan and Korea Observatories. Idea Biella, the specialist suitings area, could be said to represent the most upmarket collections of menswear fabrics, with particularly strong collections from Italy and the UK. Meanwhile, summer wool made its presence felt at Premiere Vision. PV’s customary analysis and trend information made much of eco attitudes, including natural plant or wool based materials. As with MU, the quest for less harmful finishing and enhancements was also notable. Digital shows keep the ball rolling towards wool By Janet Prescott Covid once again kept trade fairs in the realm of the digital. Below are our top five takeaways from Milano Unica and Premiere Vision. 1. The demise of the suit is greatly exaggerated As far as wool